Oct 22 / Star Khechara

Phytochemicals: The Future of Nutritional Dermatology

What Are Phytochemicals?

Phytochemicals are natural compounds found only in plants, the colourful pigments in fruits, the flavours in herbs and spices and even the stimulants in coffee and tea. The word “phyto” means “plant” and these bioactive substances are often referred to as phytonutrients, although they aren’t classified as essential nutrients like vitamins or minerals.

Phytochemicals are the true beauty chemicals of nature. They act as antioxidants, anti-inflammatories and protective agents that support the skin’s structure, resilience and visible radiance.

Closely related terms include:

  • Nutraceuticals are medicinal compounds naturally found in food.
  • Functional foods, which are foods rich in nutraceuticals.
  • Nutricosmetics, which are phytochemicals or plant-based foods that benefit the skin’s health and appearance.

All phytochemicals come from fruits, vegetables, herbs, nuts and seeds, making plants the most powerful beauty pharmacy available.

The Phytochemical Family Tree

Phytochemicals belong to several major families, each with unique functions for health and skin:

  • Polyphenols (flavonoids, phenolic acids, lignans, stilbenes)
  • Carotenoids and Terpenes
  • Organosulphides
  • Polysaccharides
  • Chlorophylls and Betalains

These compounds are responsible for a plant’s colour, aroma and taste; anthocyanins make berries blue, lycopene makes tomatoes red and curcumin gives turmeric its golden glow.
PHYTOCHEMICALS ARE THE COLOURFUL PIGMENTS IN FRUITS, THE FLAVOUR OF SPICES AND THE STIMULANTS IN COFFEE AND TEA.
Williams, Paul. Feast on Phytochemicals (book)

The Nutricosmetic Polyphenols

Polyphenols are among the most studied groups of phytochemicals for skin health. They protect collagen and elastin, reduce oxidative damage and even influence the skin’s genetic expression through epigenetic modification.

Resveratrol

Found in red red grapes, resveratrol is a powerful collagenase inhibitor, preventing the breakdown of collagen. It also activates sirtuins (the “youth proteins”), suppresses inflammation and protects against UV damage by stopping the spread of melanoma cells.

Curcumin

The bright yellow compound in turmeric, curcumin boosts skin elasticity and reduces UV-induced pigmentation and wrinkles. Like resveratrol, it inhibits the mTOR ageing pathway, helps prevent oxidative damage and protects collagen from UV degradation.

Phytoestrogens and Lignans

After menopause, collagen production and skin elasticity decline due to reduced oestrogen. Phytoestrogens in soya, legumes and fruits help restore collagen fibre thickness, increase hyaluronic acid levels and improve hydration. Flaxseeds are rich in lignans, plant phytoestrogens that are metabolised by gut bacteria into compounds that further support skin structure and reduce menopausal ageing signs.

Genistein

A soya isoflavone and mTOR inhibitor, genistein protects against UV-induced wrinkles, reduces sebum production and activates Sirtuins.

Ellagic Acid

Found in raspberries, pomegranate and strawberries, ellagic acid prevents UV-induced collagen breakdown and reduces skin thickening and inflammation. It strengthens the skin’s antioxidant defences and helps fibroblasts (the collagen-producing cells) resist UV damage.
The researchers had participants drink a smoothie made with banana, which has naturally high PPO activity, and a smoothie made with mixed berries, which have naturally low PPO activity. Participants also took a flavanol capsule as a control. Blood and urine samples were analyzed to measure how much flavanols were present in the body after ingesting the smoothie samples and capsule. The researchers found that those who drank the banana smoothie had 84% lower levels of flavanols in their body compared to the control
Williams, Paul. Feast on Phytochemicals (book)

Flavonoids: Colourful Protectors

Flavonoids are a vast subgroup of polyphenols with potent anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties.

Catechins (EGCG)

Present in green and white tea, EGCG inhibits collagenase and elastase, protecting the extracellular matrix. It also guards against sunburn and UV-induced apoptosis.

Fisetin

Found in strawberries, apples and kale, fisetin is a senolytic compound, meaning it clears “zombie” cells that cause chronic inflammation. It also activates SIRT1, inhibits mTOR and helps maintain collagen integrity.

Anthocyanins

These pigments give berries and purple foods their rich colour. Anthocyanins protect against oxidative stress and UV damage and may help increase skin levels of collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid.

Quercetin and Rutin

Quercetin, abundant in apples, inhibits AGE formation and supports youthful cellular activity. Rutin, found in buckwheat, strengthens capillaries and protects against spider veins while acting as an AGE inhibitor.

Apigenin

Present in celery, parsley and chamomile, apigenin reduces cortisol formation, the stress hormone that contributes to visible ageing. It also combats “inflammaging”, chronic inflammation that accelerates cellular decline.

The Terpenes: Nature’s Skin Armour

Terpenes are aromatic plant compounds responsible for many essential oils and pigments.

  • Beta-Carotene, the orange pigment in carrots and mangoes, acts as provitamin A and protects fibroblasts from UV-induced damage.
  • Lycopene, found in tomatoes and watermelon, shields the skin from sunburn and reduces collagen breakdown.
  • Lutein and Zeaxanthin (in leafy greens and yellow vegetables) protect against blue light and oxidative stress.
  • Phytosterols, such as aloe sterols from aloe vera, boost hydration, collagen and elasticity while reducing wrinkles.
  • Limonene from citrus peels and Taraxerol from butterfly pea flowers also display anti-inflammatory and anti-ageing activity and enzyme inhibition against elastase and hyaluronidase.

Organosulphides: Sulphur-Rich Detoxifiers

Found in cruciferous vegetables and garlic, these compounds support detoxification and reduce inflammation.

  • Sulforaphane, from broccoli and cabbage, activates DNA methylation and antioxidant defences. Broccoli sprouts contain up to 100 times more glucosinolates than mature plants.
  • Allicin, created when garlic is crushed, is antimicrobial and senolytic, destroying aged, inflamed cells.
  • Indoles, also from cabbage family vegetables, inhibit elastase and mTOR, protecting elastin and delaying skin ageing.

Polysaccharides: The Skin’s Natural Healers

These long-chain sugars are essential for gut and skin health.

  • Beta-Glucans (from oats and seaweed) boost immunity, regenerate skin cells and reduce wrinkles.
  • Pectin (from apples and citrus) supports gut health and promotes epidermal renewal.
  • Fucoidans (from seaweed) reduce cellular ageing, activate Sirtuins and enhance the intestinal barrier to prevent inflammation and “leaky gut.”

Other Phytochemicals for Skin Longevity

  • Chlorophyll, the green pigment in plants, closely resembles human haemoglobin. It helps reduce wrinkles, stimulates type I collagen and protects against DNA damage.
  • Betalains, the red pigments in beetroot, are potent antioxidants that combat oxidative stress and may influence gene expression linked to ageing.

When Phytochemicals Clash: Polyphenol Destroyers

Some foods contain polyphenol oxidase (PPO) enzymes that degrade polyphenols when mixed. Fruits like apples, avocados and bananas brown quickly when cut, a sign of high PPO content. If blending polyphenol-rich foods such as berries, avoid combining them with high-PPO fruits. A 2023 Food & Function study found that participants who consumed a banana-berry smoothie had 84% lower flavanol absorption than those who consumed berries alone.

The Takeaway: Eat the Rainbow

Phytochemicals are the unsung heroes of skin nutrition and anti-ageing. Each plant food contains a unique combination of these compounds, so the wider the variety of colourful, whole plant foods you eat, the more comprehensive your protection will be.

To maximise the beauty benefits:
  • Eat a rainbow of fruits and vegetables daily.
  • Include cruciferous vegetables, herbs, teas and berries.
  • Avoid overheating or overprocessing plant foods.
  • Remember that some plants need light processing (like chopping or blending) to activate their phytochemicals.

When it comes to radiant, youthful skin, nature’s pharmacy is edible and every meal is an opportunity to nourish your skin from the inside out.

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Article by Star Khechara

Professional agehacker, author, speaker, founder of skin nutrition institute
About me
Ex-skincare formulator and beauty author turned skin-nutrition educator: Star distilled her 20+ years of skin-health knowledge into the world’s first international accredited skin-nutrition school to teach skin therapists, facialists, face yoga practitioners and estheticians how to help their clients feed the skin from within for cellular-level rejuvenation and vibrant beauty. 

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