Nov 11 / Star Khechara

Sebum Balance and Omega-3 Fatty Acids in Clinical Skin Nutrition

Understanding Sebum Composition and Function

Sebum is a complex lipid mixture secreted by the sebaceous glands, attached to each hair follicle. It plays a crucial role in maintaining the skin barrier and the acid mantle, helping to lock in hydration and support the microbiome.

Its approximate composition is:

  • 57.5% triglycerides and fatty acids
  • 26% wax esters
  • 12% squalene
  • 4.5% cholesterol


These lipids form part of the skin’s protective lipid layer, shielding against water loss and microbial imbalance.

Sebum Output and Skin Type Balance

  • The average sebum production rate in adults is around 1 mg per 10 cm² every three hours.
  • When sebum output exceeds 1.5 mg/10 cm² every three hours, it’s considered excessive (seborrhoea), which contributes to oily skin, congestion and acneiform conditions.
  • When sebum output is 0.5/10 cm² that is considered underproduction and can result in dryness, flaking and barrier disruption, often seen in eczema or mature skin.

Achieving balanced sebum flow is therefore a core goal in nutritional skin therapy.

Omega-3 Fatty Acids and Sebum Regulation

Omega-3 fatty acids play a central role in modulating sebum production.

Omega-3s help:

  • Reduce inflammation within sebaceous glands
  • Improve the quality and fluidity of sebum lipids
  • Balance excessive production triggered by hormones or diet
  • Support a healthier skin microbiome

Deficiency or imbalance in omega-3 intake has been linked to increased sebum oxidation, inflammation and acne-prone skin.

Omega-3-Rich Foods for Skin Professionals to Recommend

Plant-based omega-3 sources include:

  • Flaxseed
  • Chia seed
  • Hempseed
  • Walnuts
  • Nori seaweed
  • Kelp
  • Spirulina
  • Chlorella


Encouraging these foods helps restore lipid balance in the skin and supports overall dermal resilience.

Flaxseed

Chia seed

Walnuts

Nori seaweed

Spirulina

Kelp

Dietary Patterns That Disrupt Sebum Balance

A Western-style diet, high in meat, dairy, refined carbohydrates and sugar, can drive excessive sebum output.

  • Leucine from animal protein stimulates sebum synthesis.
  • Dairy intake elevates insulin and IGF-1, which activate sebaceous activity.
  • Refined sugars and saturated fats increase cortisol, further promoting overproduction.


Practitioners should therefore assess dietary fat quality and stress-related patterns when working with oily or acne-prone clients.

Practitioner Insight

Understanding sebum dynamics allows nutrition professionals to connect dietary lipids with barrier health, hydration and acne outcomes.
By optimising omega-3 intake and moderating sebum-stimulating foods, practitioners can help clients achieve visibly calmer, more balanced skin.

References

  1. Endly DC, Miller RA. Oily Skin: A review of Treatment Options. J Clin Aesthet Dermatol. 2017 Aug;10(8):49-55
  2. Grant, P. (2010). Spearmint herbal tea has significant anti‐androgen effects in polycystic ovarian syndrome. a randomized controlled trial. Phytotherapy Research, 24(2), 186-188.
  3. Nowak DA, Snyder DC, Brown AJ, Demark-Wahnefried W. The Effect of Flaxseed Supplementation on Hormonal Levels Associated with Polycystic Ovarian Syndrome: A Case Study. Curr Top Nutraceutical Res. 2007;5(4):177-181
  4. Ali S, Scapagnini G, Davinelli S. Effect of omega-3 fatty acids on the telomere length: A mini meta-analysis of clinical trials. Biomol Concepts. 2022 Feb 21;13(1):25-33
  5. Pochi PE, Strauss JS, Downing DT. Age-related changes in sebaceous gland activity. J Invest Dermatol. 1979 Jul;73(1):108-11.
  6. Baldwin, Hilary, and Jerry Tan. "Effects of Diet on Acne and Its Response to Treatment." American Journal of Clinical Dermatology 22.1 (2020): 55-65.

Sebum regulation is frequently oversimplified

Without a systems-based framework, it is easy to view oily or dry skin as a surface-level concern to be managed with topicals, rather than a reflection of systemic lipid metabolism.

Understanding the complex interplay between dietary omega-3s, hormonal triggers like IGF-1 and the inflammatory signalling within the sebaceous gland is what turns basic skincare advice into a high-level clinical protocol.

When you address the quality and fluidity of sebum from the inside out, you solve the root cause of barrier disruption and congestion.
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Star Khechara

Professional agehacker, author, speaker and founder of Skin Nutrition Institute
About me
Skincare formulator and beauty author turned skin-nutrition educator: Star distilled her 20+ years of skin-health knowledge into the world’s first international accredited skin-nutrition school to teach skin therapists, facialists, face yoga practitioners and estheticians how to help their clients feed the skin from within for cellular-level rejuvenation and vibrant beauty. 
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