Oct 30 / Star Khechara

Keratin: The Nutritional Science Behind Hair and Nail Strength

Keratin is one of the most vital proteins within the integumentary system, forming the structural foundation of both hair and nails. For skincare professionals, understanding keratin’s biology and its nutritional dependencies is essential for supporting clients’ hair, nail and skin integrity. Far more than a simple strength protein, keratin represents the body’s capacity for protection, regeneration and repair.

The Science Behind Keratin

Keratin is a fibrous structural protein rich in sulphur-containing amino acids, particularly cysteine, which form strong disulphide bonds. These bonds give keratin its exceptional strength, elasticity and resistance to damage. Other key amino acids include serine, proline, glutamine and glycine, which together form the coiled filament structure that maintains keratin’s durability under stress.

The visible parts of hair and nails are composed of keratinised cells, yet their formation is metabolically active within the follicles and nail matrix. These regions rely on a steady supply of amino acids, minerals and vitamins delivered via the bloodstream. Nutritional deficiencies can therefore translate directly into weak, brittle or dull hair and nails.

Keratin and Hair Health

Hair fibres consist of three structural layers: medulla, cortex and cuticle. The cortex contains the highest concentration of keratin, providing tensile strength and elasticity, while the cuticle—formed by overlapping keratinised cells—protects the inner layers. Damage to this protective barrier, whether through chemical exposure or nutritional depletion, leads to porosity and loss of shine.

Hair growth occurs in cycles: anagen (growth), catagen (transition) and telogen (rest). During the anagen phase, keratin synthesis is at its peak. Nutrients such as zinc, iron, sulphur and amino acids like cysteine and methionine are critical to maintaining this process. Even mild deficiencies can reduce the anagen period, resulting in slower hair growth and increased shedding.

Keratin and Nail Strength

Nails are horn-like structures made primarily of hard keratin. The nail plate forms in the matrix beneath the cuticle, where new keratinocytes are continuously generated. As they move outward, these cells flatten and harden into dense, protective layers. Adequate nutrition ensures strong, flexible nails, while insufficient keratin production leads to brittleness and ridging.

Although the nail contains less lipid than the skin, hydration and mineral balance remain essential. Calcium, zinc, iron and silica contribute to firmness and resilience, while amino acids and sulphur support keratin’s structural matrix.

Amino Acids and Plant-Based Nutritional Sources

Supporting keratin synthesis requires targeted nutrient choices. Key amino acids like cysteine, methionine, proline and serine can be found in:

  • Cruciferous vegetables (broccoli, kale, Brussels sprouts) – rich in sulphur compounds that aid cysteine production
  • Spinach and asparagus – sources of proline and glutamine
  • Avocado – provides healthy fats plus small amounts of cysteine and glutamine
  • Berries – deliver antioxidants that protect keratin-forming cells from oxidative damage
  • Seaweed and spirulina – concentrated superfoods offering essential amino acids and trace minerals
  • Garlic and onions – potent sulphur donors that enhance keratin cross-linking and synthesis

These foods support the amino acid pathways required for keratin formation while improving cellular defence mechanisms that preserve protein quality.

A Nutritional Perspective for Professionals

Keratin reflects the body’s internal health more accurately than any cosmetic indicator. For skincare practitioners, encouraging clients to nourish the hair and nails from within is fundamental. Integrating plant-based superfoods, sulphur-rich vegetables and antioxidants into dietary advice enhances keratin production naturally. This approach creates a complete strategy for resilience, repair and long-term integumentary health.

References

  1. InformedHealth.org [Internet]. Cologne, Germany: Institute for Quality and Efficiency in Health Care (IQWiG); 2006-. Structure of the nails. 2018 Jun 28. Available from: https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/books/NBK513133/
  2. Koster MI. Making an epidermis. Ann N Y Acad Sci. 2009 Jul;1170:7-10.
  3. Fuchs, Elaine. "Skin stem cells: rising to the surface." The Journal of Cell Biology 180.2 (2008): 273-284.
  4. Blanpain, Cédric, and Elaine Fuchs. "Epidermal Stem Cells of the Skin." Annual Review of Cell and Developmental Biology 22 (2006): 339-373.
  5. Controls of Hair Follicle Cycling. K. S. Stenn and R. Paus. Physiological Reviews 2001 81:1, 449-494
  6. Matsuzaki T, Yoshizato K. Role of hair papilla cells on induction and regeneration processes of hair follicles. Wound Repair Regen. 1998 Nov-Dec;6(6):524-30.
  7. Desmond John Tobin. 2005. Hair in Toxicology: An Important Bio-monitor. Royal Society of Chemistry. ISBN: 9780854045877
  8. Patel BC, Treister AD, McCausland C, et al. Anatomy, Skin, Sudoriferous Gland. [Updated 2022 Apr 30]. In: StatPearls [Internet]. Treasure Island (FL): StatPearls Publishing; 2022 Jan
  9. https://www.britannica.com/science/protein

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Article by Star Khechara

Professional agehacker, author, speaker, founder of skin nutrition institute
About me
Ex-skincare formulator and beauty author turned skin-nutrition educator: Star distilled her 20+ years of skin-health knowledge into the world’s first international accredited skin-nutrition school to teach skin therapists, facialists, face yoga practitioners and estheticians how to help their clients feed the skin from within for cellular-level rejuvenation and vibrant beauty. https://www.skinnutritioninstitute.com/course/nutridermatologydiploma

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